Hiking in Podgorica, Montenegro - A Ryanair Route You’ve Probably Never Thought About
- Julia Labedz
- 1 day ago
- 2 min read
When Ryanair launched flights to Podgorica, Montenegro’s capital, few saw it as a hiking opportunity. But for those willing to look beyond the typical Balkan itineraries, this small city unlocks access to one of Europe’s most underappreciated landscapes - the Dinaric Alps.
And just 45 minutes from the city centre is one of the most remarkable half-day hikes you can do in Europe, without crowds, ski lifts, or packaged tours - Rikavac Fortress and the Old Road to Lake Skadar.
The Hike - Old Road to Lake Skadar via Rikavac

Start from the old town of Virpazar, a tiny lakeside village that can be reached easily by train or bus from Podgorica. From there, a series of old Roman and Ottoman trade paths head uphill past olive groves and stone ruins to Rikavac Fortress, a remote, crumbling 19th-century outpost with a panoramic view over Lake Skadar, the largest lake in the Balkans.
The route is about 10km round trip, and while it’s not technically difficult, the heat and elevation change (around 500m) make it a satisfying challenge. You'll pass goats and the occasional shepherd - and more than likely, no other hikers.
Descending to the lake, you’ll end your walk in Virpazar, where you can cool off with a boat ride or a glass of local Vranac wine at one of the floating cafés.
What to Do in Podgorica
Podgorica itself is small. It’s not polished - and that’s what makes it interesting. There are boutique shops and a stunning old town quarter, alongside brutalist architecture, Ottoman bridges, and locals drinking Turkish coffee.
Notable stops:
Stara Varoš: The old Ottoman quarter, with cobbled streets and a handful of still-operating mosques.
Niagara Falls (yes, really): A surprisingly impressive waterfall on the Cijevna River just outside the city.
Duklja Ruins: The remains of a Roman settlement, scattered across a hill just 10 minutes from downtown.

Where to Stay
In Podgorica, Hotel Hemera is a stylish boutique option in the city centre, with strong espresso, smart design, and a very good in-house restaurant. For a more nature-focused stay, book a lakeside guesthouse near Virpazar like Eco Resort Cermeniza, run by a local winemaking family with easy trail access.

Getting There with Ryanair
Ryanair flies direct to Podgorica from Dublin, with flight times around 3 hours. Fares can dip as low as €40 return, making it one of the most affordable routes to a completely off-radar European destination. The airport is just 15 minutes from the city centre, and Virpazar can be reached in another 30 minutes by local train, making it simple, scenic, and perfect for a hiking base.
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